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First, there are no plants that can survive without water! True, some
plants can survive with less water than others but these are plants with
special modifications. Think cactus, creosote bush, mesquite, ceanothus
or manzanita.
Some gardeners see a plant labeled as drought tolerant and presume that
it will require no water. Wrong, wrong, wrong. All plants, drought tolerant
or not require the same care and attention for at least the first year.
After the second year, the drought tolerant plants can probably survive
on less water than the average plant. So by gradually replacing water
guzzlers with drought tolerant species you can eventually reduce water
usage.
Lawns are probably the biggest water guzzlers in the home landscape.
If you reduce the amount of lawn area and replace it with gravel, tanbark
or rock fines, you will reduce by a significant amount the water used
for irrigation. Installing synthetic turf (which looks more natural than
it did a few years ago) completely eliminates the need for a significant
amount of water.
Drip irrigation unquestionably uses less water than spray irrigation
over the same area. Drippers do not apply water to areas between plants
where there are no plants. There are some shortcomings with the use of
drip irrigation but they use water more economically than other methods.
If you use spray irrigation, apply the coarsest spray possible early in
the day before wind comes up. A fine spray on a windy day can result in
up to a 50% loss of water not reaching the plants in the ground. Some
people like to set their timers to 4 am where water pressure, wind conditions
and the coolness of the early morning are optimum.
The use of flood irrigation of trees results in almost all of the water
going into the root zone of the tree. A berm built around each tree individually
or around a whole row of trees ensures that the water will stay channeled
to the tree’s root zone.
Soaker hoses are almost as efficient as drip irrigation systems and they
do a better job of stimulating root development by encouraging roots to
grow into a wider area.
Poly crystals added to soil do not conserve water or cause you
to use less water. They do permit the soil to hold more water than normal,
thus increasing the interval between waterings. They have their greatest
value when used in soil mixes going into terra-cotta pots placed in hot,
sunny locations.
Finally, and most importantly, use mulch throughout the garden.
There should be no place in the garden where bare soil is visible unless
it is a path or parking lot. Mulches should be two to four inches thick
and be any kind of organic material. Fine materials such as Forest
Blend (redwood compost), Gold Rush (fir compost
and other material), or Bumper Crop (fir compost and
other material) in addition to mulching the soil, gradually mix with the
soil and improve the texture of our heavy clay soils. Larger fir bark
is also suitable and may be more attractive in some cases.
The role of mulch is to reduce evaporation of water from the soil, help
keep the soil at a cooler, more favorable temperature and gradually increase
the organic matter in the soil. Mulch should be porous enough to permit
water and air to flow through. Newspaper, sawdust and redwood bark (gorilla
hair) have been suggested as suitable mulches but they fail the porosity
test.
So finally, to conserve water: reduce lawn areas, use plants that require
less water, apply water efficiently and mulch, mulch, mulch.
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