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September is an in-between time of the year. Summer is not quite over
and fall is not quite here. But, by mid-September it is certainly time
to think about and to get ready for fall planting.
Before the fall planting can begin, there is a certain amount of garden
maintenance to be performed. Start by removing tired annuals and vegetables.
If there is any symptom of disease (rust, mildew, wilt) do not compost
the plants. Dispose of sick plant material in your green waste trash cans
and donate them to Allied Waste. You’ve heard that green tomatoes
left on the vine and hung in the garage, or where-ever will ripen. This
is total nonsense. They may turn red or orange but they will have no more
flavor than when they were pulled green.
Do not do any dormant spraying or pruning at this time. If your dahlias
or zinnias are mildewed, don’t waste time or effort spraying them
because all the leaves will fall off in the next month or so, anyway.
September is a good time to see perennials and shrubs in bloom; things
like Hibiscus, Buddleia, Salvia, Penstemon and so on. If you can find
these plants in four-inch or one gallon containers and if there is a place
in your garden, put them in now. The ground is warm and will remain so
until almost November. The tops may not do much but the roots will be
well developed and established by spring.
If your fall planting garden is an open area, it needs to be revitalized
with organic matter. Spread one or two inches of Gold Rush
(Mr. Ed’s personal favorite) or Bumper Crop
over the entire area. Then sprinkle enough gypsum
to look like a light snow on top of the organic matter. Finally spread
about two pounds of Formula 49 fertilizer per
100 square feet over the entire area and dig it (or Rototill) all into
a depth of six to eight inches.
Most gardeners think of bulbs when we talk of fall planting. The Narcissus
group (daffodils, paper whites, jonquils, etc.), Dutch Iris and Snowdrops
are among your best bets. They are all deer and gopher proof and will
multiply and come back year after year. Snowdrops will even grow in a
semi-shaded area. Tulips, Hyacinths, Crocus and some of their relatives
need to be refrigerated for six to eight weeks before planting, and in
the Bay Area will seldom multiply. They are best planted in pots and then
discarded when they finish blooming. Narcissus and Dutch Iris, Snowdrops
and even Grape Hyacinths will come back year after year and can grow through
an annual bed of flowers (violas, alyssum, and pansy) or a low ground
cover such as sand strawberry or ajuga.
In addition, there are numerous colorful annuals and perennials for the
winter garden. The primroses come in a wide variety of color and sizes
(try planting a whole bed of all one color). Pansies, violas, Iceland
poppies, cyclamen and others are other good choices.
From seed, now is the time to plant sweet peas and California poppies.
All of these plants will thrive in the soil you previously prepared as
will a wide array of winter vegetables. Now is the time to plant your
favorite kale crops (cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli, kale, Brussels sprouts)
as well as any of your favorite leafy vegetables (spinach, chard, lettuce,
parsley, bok choy and cilantro). Basil won’t make it. Fall is not
the time to plant vegetables which develop from flowers (tomatoes, squash,
etc.) except for peas, which are a fall and winter crop. Root vegetables
do well in the fall and winter garden, too (turnips, onions, beets, parsnips,
carrots, etc.).
Fertilize your winter garden at least once more about six weeks after
planting. Use Formula 49 or Dr.
Earth Vegetable fertilizer.
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