Hydrangeas need a rich, well draining soil for the best growth. In our heavy Peninsula soils this means amending with about three inches of organic matter (redwood compost, Gold Rush, Bumper Crop, rice hulls, coir or similar material) plus ten pounds of gypsum per 100 square feet all dug or roto-tilled to a depth of 8 to 10 inches.
There are about ten fairly common species of Hydrangea. The most frequently used is Hydrangea maciophylla (garden hydragea or mophead Hydrangea). At least one species of climbing Hydrangea can become 50 or more feet long (H. anomala). H. serrata is a compact species which may be only four feet tall. The garden hydrangea blooms with red, pink, white or blue flowers, which accounts for its popularity. Additionally, some varieties of H. macrophylla are called ‘lacecaps’ because the flower cluster is of two different sizes (small bead-like blooms in the center, surrounded by one or two rows of large frilly petals.)
The colors of the garden hydrangea can be intensified by adjusting the pH of the soil. ‘Nikko Blue,’ for example, can have its pale blue flower changed to a deep dark blue by acidifying the soil with Aluminum sulfate. The aluminum fraction also plays a role in color production. Aluminum sulfate must be applies to our soils before the flower buds are fully formed. We recommend that it be applied for at least three months in November, December and January. More often would also be fine since it will maintain the lower soil pH.
Our clay soils are naturally alkaline, so genetically pink flowering plants will remain pink. Pink and red flowering plants can have their colors intensified by adding oyster shell lime to the soil on the same schedule as the Aluminum sulfate. Obviously, it is not a good idea to mix pink flowering and blue flowering Hydrangeas in the same flower beds. White Hydrangeas will remain white regardless of soil pH.
Two relatively new varietals, ‘Endless Summer’ and Penny Mac’ can have their flower colors changed from pink to blue or blue to pink or have their color intensified by making the soil more acidic (aluminum sulfate) or more alkaline (oyster shell).
Pruning hydrangeas seems to cause more problems and misunderstanding than any other aspect of the plant’s care. Most hydrangeas bloom on ‘last year’s wood.’ That is, the flowers will come from the buds on the stems that grew last summer. Therefore, it is essential that new, healthy stems be produced each year. Garden Hydrangeas and most others should be pruned in January or February.
First take a quick look at your bush and identify the canes one-half to one inch in diameter and with no more than one ‘dog-leg’ in its length. These you will keep.
Next cut off at ground level any dead canes or any pencil size or smaller canes.
Remove at ground level any old gnarly looking canes or those with more than one ‘dog-leg.’
If there are two canes one or two inches apart, remove the smaller of the two.
If you have not removed at least one-third of the bush’s total growth, do that as the next step. All cuts up to this point should be at ground level.
Decide how tall you want your bushes to become and cut the remaining stems 12 to 14 inches shorter than that. Make the cut within one-inch above a pair of buds on the stem. Then cut all of the other stems to about the same height, above a pair of buds.
‘Endless Summer’ and ‘Penny Mac’ will bloom on both this year’s new growth and last summer’s wood. Consequently, there is a prolonged blooming period.
Fertilize Hydrangeas at Easter time and the 4th of July. Mr. Ed uses Master Nursery Camellia, Azalea, Gardenia and Rhododendron Food on the blue flowering plants and Master Nursery Rose and Flower Food on the ones with pink flowers.
To bloom well, Hydrangeas need a moist soil and filtered sun all day or two to three hours of direct sun. ‘Bright light’ doesn’t work.
Finally, acid soil for blue flowers, alkaline soil for pink flowers, fertilize twice a year, use well amended moist soil, prune in January or February leaving new canes three-quarter inches or larger and cut in half above a pair of buds.
Yes, you can grow Hydrangeas in containers, but use 15 gallon size or larger.
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